Saturday, September 3, 2011

Day 195 - Tarts!

Stuhlingen - Gasthof Hotel Krone

We travelled back into Switzerland today to visit Basel, another picturesque city, that had a bakery with wonderful raspberry tarts (according to M) - why don't all tarts contain this much jam? It was also kind of weird (in a nice way) - first we saw some strange performance going on in a cafe where people were walking around singing to themselves, then while we were trying to figure out what was going on, two scantily clad girls walked past done up completely in black skin paint (we had no idea what they were selling).

It was also a very nice day, not what we would think was swimming weather, but to the citizens of Basel it was a perfect day to float down the swiflty flowing river.

We headed back over the border into Germany for a drive through the Black Forest, along with hundreds of motorcyclists - the area is obviously a favourite for motorbikes. The scenery was beautiful, some of the towns and houses were quite pretty, and we finished up back in Stuhlingen for a second night.

Friday, September 2, 2011

Day 194 - Not exactly Vic Falls, but still worth a visit

Rothrist (Switzerland) to Stuhlingen (Germany) - Gasthof Hotel Krone

Today we drove to Zurich, and went for a short walk around town, including a stroll up and down Bahnhoffstrasse, supposedly a great street for shopping, though we didn't notice anything special. Sometimes you have heard of a city so much you think you have to visit but when you get there it is just another big city!

We drove from there on to the Rhine Falls (Rheinfall), the largest waterfall in Europe. Obviously after seeing Victoria Falls we are not going to be easily impressed. What the Rhine Falls lose in size is made up for by the way the platforms are built around the falls, giving you a closeup experience as you are very close to the water rushing past.

We spent the night at a lovely little guest house in Stuhlingen, a few minutes over the border in Germany, where we gladly opened up our wallets to eat in a restaurant again!

Thursday, September 1, 2011

Day 193 - Three bears and a genius

Rothrist - Ibis Hotel

We have decided that we can't really afford to spend much more time in Switzerland - where we are staying in Rothrist is the cheapest hotel we could find, at $130 a night. It's seems to be in the middle of nowhere, but it's actually well based for day trips to Swiss towns.

We headed off for a big day of sightseeing in the south of the country. First was the Swiss capital of Bern. After parking the car we walked to the end of the street to find an enclosure with 3 bears wandering around - these were the remnants of the old bear pits, though the bears have a lot more space now than they used to. We then headed up the main street, visit Einstein's old house along the way, before walking around town and back to the car.

We then drove to Montreux on the shores of Lake Geneva, apparently one of the richest holidays area in the world. After a short stroll along the waterfront we drove to Château de Chillon, a small castle on an island just a few metres off the shore. Next stop after this was Lausanne, where we quickly toured the city centre (cathedrals, etc .... you know the drill).

On the way back to Rothrist we did some shopping, and tonight we "dined" in our hotel room on potato chips and biscuits, unwilling to open our wallets in a country where a Big Mac costs $10 (not that either of us has ever eaten one).

Wednesday, August 31, 2011

Day 192 - Why is Switzerland so expensive?

Bludenz (Austria) to Rothrist (Switzerland) - Ibis Hotel

After breakfast (served on a beautiful outdoor terrace with a lovely view of the Austrian Alps) we headed back to Liechtenstein to recover our card. We finally spoke to someone at the post office who could help, but they said we would have to wait an hour! After some grumbling from K, they suggested they could post it to us - very useful! They eventually got the picture and opened the machine for us, after which we finally managed to leave the country we couldn't afford!

We drove on to the beautiful Switzerland city of Lucerne (no, we didn't see any hay). After walking through the town for a while, we caught the world's steepest cog railway up Mt. Pilatus, passing cows grazing the steep hillside with huge bells around their neck, it was all very reminiscent of Heidi, it would be amazing to see it with snow. It was a beautiful day, from the top we had the most amazing views of the Swiss Alps and Lucerne. There was snow on some of the peaks in the distance, but none where we were.

Tuesday, August 30, 2011

Day 191 - Into the clouds

Innsbruck to Bludenz - Schlosshotel Dorfinger

Innsbruck has hosted two Winter Olympics, so we had to visit the Olympic ski jump which wasn't far from our guest house, quite an amazing sight! We caught the funicular to the top, it was a little scary looking from the top and thinking how talented you would have to be to manage that slope - especially when the view towards town off the end of the jump is the town cemetry! We walked down and were very lucky to see someone practicing on the jump, it was covered in a plastic material and watered before use.

After that we headed into town and took the Nordkette funicular and cable car up the mountain. They view was fantastic on the way up, but unfortunately when we finally reached our destination we were in the clouds, so there wasn't much to do other than head back down the mountain.

Now finished with Austria (we thought) we drove into the tiny country of Liechtenstein, with a vague plan of spending the evening in Valduz. However Liechtenstein decided it didn't like the likes of us! First of all it was impossible to find any accommodation priced even close to what we thought was reasonable. We had two cups of coffee so we could use wifi to do some investigation on the internet - $12 later we realised that we wouldn't be staying in Valduz, instead we found some nice accommodation in Bludenz, not too far over the border in Austria! But Liechtenstein hadn't finished with us yet, while trying to get some money from the ATM it decided to swallow our card - meaning we had to come back the next day to retrieve it.

On the positive side though the accommodation we had booked in Bludenz was booked out, so we were upgraded to a 4 star hotel.

Monday, August 29, 2011

Day 190 - People really dress like that?

Salzburg to Innsbruck - Sporthotel Schieferle

We had decided that in order to see the best of Switzerland we needed a car. After much investigation we worked out that it was much cheaper to pick up a car in Germany and return it to Germany, than to hire a car in either Austria or Switzerland, so we caught the train from Salzburg to Rosenheim. On the trip we were really surprised at how many people were wearing traditional costumes, we expected that type of dress to be only to entertain tourists, but we saw lots of people wearing it, even teenagers. It's very cute on the girls but the shorts on the men...well that's something else!

We picked up the car and drove back into Austria, this time heading to Innsbruck, where (after a short walk around town) we stayed in a guest house not far up the mountain.

Sunday, August 28, 2011

Day 189 - The hills are alive .....

Vienna to Salzburg - Hotel Garni Evido

Back on the train again, this time to Salzburg - birthplace of Mozart, and also where the "The Sound of Music" was filmed. The town was quite pretty, with many Mozart related sights. However neither of us are into classical music or have seen "Amadeus", so "The Sound of Music" related attractions were the order of the day.

First stop in our mini Sound of Music tour was Hellbrun Castle. The tourist map we'd been given implied it wasn't far from town - but after walking around Salzburg Castle and then heading in what we thought was the right direction, we worked out we still had about 4km to go - those tourist maps have a bad habit of not being to scale! So we hopped on a bus and eventually saw the gazebo from the movie (which was a lot smaller than expected), as well as some very nice gardens in the castle grounds.

We then went to find Leopoldskron Castle (the house on the lake from the film) only to find that it was a private conference centre and visitors weren't allowed - a waste of time. Next were the beautiful Mirabell Gardens where they sang "Do Re Me". Although M has never seen the film (and doesn't want to), he did kind of recognise the song based on K's singing (if that's what you could call it).

Saturday, August 27, 2011

Day 184 to Day 188 - Who'd have thought we'd pay to see horses prance around a riding arena??

Prague (Czech Republic) to Vienna (Austria) - Der Wilhelmshof Hotel

Day 184 - Being the now savvy European train travelers that we are we didn’t pay for a seat reservation, just plonked ourselves in the first available compartment and settled in - and of course they'd been reserved by someone else! Another lesson learnt, check the paperwork on the outside of a compartment before you enter! After hauling our luggage down from the racks we finally found a compartment with two unreserved seats. Every trip you learn something more!

We disembarked in Vienna a few hours later to a blast of heat - not what we had expected. As we had a few days planned here we decided not to venture into town yet, instead we just explored the local area near the hotel.

Day 185 - The temperature is to be in the mid 30’s for a whole week here, which we are told is unusual for Vienna and certainly makes sightseeing a challenge. There seem to be very few hotels, shops or restaurants in Vienna that have air conditioning, they probably don’t need it enough to warrant it but it makes weeks like this difficult.

Today we had planned to visit Schönbrunn Palace. We had read about the crowds and the long wait in the sun for tickets so we made sure we were there for opening at 8.30am, even then the palace was still surprisingly busy with tour groups.

After touring the castle and walking around some of the extensive grounds we left a couple of hours later glad we weren't part of the crowds now waiting to get in. When you go to these major tourist attractions you realise that the crowds must be like this day after day and you get an appreciation for how many tourists there are around

Back in the city we wandered around to see the sights, and we stumbled onto the Spanish Riding School, for which K has a ticket for Saturday's performance. We were surprised to find it right in the centre of town, though if we'd done some research we would have already known that!

We then caught the train down to the banks of the Danube (with some pretty uninspiring "beaches") and walked around until the heat did us in, arriving back to our air conditioned room about 4pm.

We are staying a few train stations out of the city and we had dinner at a pizza/pasta place around the corner from our hotel. Amazingly sitting at the table next to us were the couple we had shared the carriage with on the train from Prague – as this is such a huge city, it was an amazing coincidence.


Days 186 and 187 - Our lack of planning has started to uncover some some gaps in our future travels, so we decided we needed to spend some time figuring out where we'll go over the next couple of months. It's obvious we do not have the time to see everything we want, one of the reasons being that K can only stay in Europe for 90 days. As a result we have started narrowing down our list of highlights to see, as well as working out the cheapest way to get around. It also seems a good way to make use of our time at the moment and escape the heat of the day.

We did still get out and about though, just not as much as usual. We visited the huge park near our hotel called the Wiener Prater, which contains an amusement park. In the park is the Wiener Reisenrad, a giant ferris wheel that was built back in 1897, as well as many more modern rides - though we didn't go on any of them.

Day 188 - K had a ticket for the first performance of the Spanish Riding School since their summer break. The place was packed out and the show absolutely stunning. It was the young horses' first performance and there was lot of shying, some taking off and even some bucking thrown in.

The seasoned performers were as striking as you would expect. The riders all looked liked clones. There was only one female rider, the rest were all very long legged men with the most perfect leg positions you have ever seen. Everything you'd expect to see was in the show but K did wonder whether the one time changes on the long rein was appreciated by the audience, but as it turns out the applause was so huge that the trainer actually looked up and smiled at the audience, the only time any rider seemed to acknowledge that the audience was  there.

K had one of the best seats right near X in the front row. The head rider of the school came out for the last performances, quite a bit overweight and no one has obviously felt like pointing out to him that he is losing his leg position! For K, this would be the best show she has ever attended and she could easily go again tomorrow.

(M: I didn't go to the riding school, and I don't even know what any of this means so I'll just leave it as it is ....K tried to explain what a "one time change" is but I still don't get it .........).

Later in the day M went for a long walk in the Wiener Prater and guess what .... lots more stick walkers, most of them walking not very fast at all! From what we can tell though, they are doing something called "Nordic Walking", there's even a club in Australia (no, we won't be joining it when we get back).

Monday, August 22, 2011

Day 181 to Day 183 - So many bones ......

Berlin (Germany) to Prague (Czech Republic) - Clarion Congress Hotel

Day 181 - The train trip from Berlin to Prague was easy and comfy, train travel is certainly much less hassle than flying. As per usual, we had booked a hotel near a railway station. In this case the station was inside a shopping complex with the hotel attached, so it couldn’t be easier. As it turns out, when we made our reservation they were almost fully booked, so we were upgraded to an executive suite. Finally .... after 6 months of hostels and hotels it was probably about our turn!

We caught the train in to the centre of the old city for the evening and were surprised by the number of people around. The huge old town square was full of tourists, and it was also very warm, so there was a great atmosphere, and with the lighting on the old cathedral it was quite a sight.

Day 182 - Today we've been on the road for 6 months - it has gone so fast, and we are well behind where we thought we'd be by this time, but we've also changed our plans a number of times along the way (because we can!).

After enjoying the walking tour of Berlin we decided to try one in Prague. This time we signed up for a free one, they bank on large numbers with tips at the end, plus the upsell to their other tours.

It started off much more disorganized than the previous one. It took 45 minutes to get started and there were about 50 in our group alone. Our guide was perhaps a little on the young side (though at least he was Czech) and at times over the top and repetitive but we still saw a lot of the sights (clocks, cathedrals, churches, town squares, headless statues, 400 year old mummified arms ....) and also heard some of the interesting history, including the events after WWII and the Velvet Revolution.

After the tour we decided to continue on with the paid tour of Prague Castle (so the upsell worked!) and this time had a guide more to our liking (who also happened to be Australian). As we walked around she filled us in on more of the medieval and communist history of Prague.

It was a long day and we both felt we'd had enough by the end, but we had seen and learnt a lot - plus our attitude to group tours seems to be changing!


Day 183 Today we caught the train to Kutná Hora, a small town about an hour from Prague. From the station we walked into town, and it was really warm, the whole week's forecast was for mid 30’s.

After seeing the town sights (including St. Barbara's Cathedral) we caught a local bus to the Kostnice Ossuary. This place is famous for its human bone collection. About 40000 bodies were dug up and arranged into all sorts of shapes, including pyramids of skulls and a coat of arms complete with a bird. However the grand display is a chandelier hanging from the ceiling made from every bone in the human body.

We finished the day desperately trying to find reasonable accommodation in Vienna with air con. We failed miserably and ended up spending much more than anticipated as we are leaving tomorrow - and K needs her air con!

Friday, August 19, 2011

Day 177 to Day 180 - All in all it's just another brick in the wall

Dresden to Berlin - Best Western Hotel City Ost

Our next stop after Dresden was Berlin, so this post summarises our few days there. Overall we found Berlin to be one of our favourite cities in Germany, due to the amazing history and its more cosmopolitan nature (and the fact that there were some decent restaurants near our hotel that didn't just offer schnitzel, bratwust or pizza certainly helped)!

Day 177 - Just as we were getting the hang of speeding along the autobahn it's time to hand the car back! On our way to Berlin we visited the nearby city of Potsdam. The most impressive sight there was Sansouci, the old summer palace of Frederick the Great, where we spent a little time wandering through the gardens.

Sans Souci, Potsdam
Driving into Berlin was a bit of an ordeal, the fact that we were in peak hour traffic didn't help, nor did the route the GPS selected, as it seemed to take us past (and even through) every tourist infested attraction in Berlin! We needed to get to our hotel, drop off our luggage, return the car and get a train back to the hotel. Three hours later we had finally achieved it, M ended up with a headache, and K was totally stressed and she wasn't even driving!

Day 178 - Against our normal way of travelling we signed up for a walking tour of the city. We'd read it was rated very highly. and as Berlin is so big and there is so much history we thought we'd try going with the experts, and at least it would save us all the hours that we usually spend lost.

We found the tour great, the guide was entertaining and informative. We walked by all the major sights from Checkpoint Charlie to the Brandenburg Gate and we learnt so much about the whole post-WW2 period when the Berlin Wall was erected. It was also surprising to hear that Berlin is a poor city with unemployment at 14%, with all the wondeful buildings it gives a different impression, though we did encounter a few pushy beggars.

Even though the majority of the wall has now gone the route has been kept at road level marked with different cobblestones, so as you wander the city you cross the line in the street umpteen times which reinforces so well the path that it took. We also saw a wonderful WW2 memorial which was a sculpture of a mother with her dying son in her arms, the skylight in the roof above her is not covered over so when it is raining it appears as if the world is weeping with her and when it snows her cloak is covered in a dusting of snow. On a different note the tour finished opposite the hotel where Michael Jackson dangled the baby from the balcony. The rest of the day was spent revisiting some of the areas we visited earlier that had piqued our interest during the walking tour.

Day 179 - We are getting to the stage where we have stopped visiting the insides of every church, palace and museum but rather choosing just the ones that appear special. In Berlin we chose the Pergamon Museum. The ruins of Pergamon are close to Troy, which we visited in Turkey. The museum is designed brilliantly with the friezes and temple pieces structured to the original building sizes and plans. Exhibits included the Pergamon temple, and the Ishtar Gate from Babylon. Despite the amazing number of people there it was brilliant a place to visit, but once again we wonder why some of these artefacts are in Berlin and not in their home country (then again, it would be quite difficult to see the Ishtar Gate if it was back in Iraq ....).

More revisiting after that, including a closer look at the Berlin Wall and the nearby exhibition, as well as a bus ride to one of the main shopping areaa where we watched a pole vault competition in the square.

Day 180 - We decided we needed a break today from sightseeing and to catch up on some chores. The internet in Germany has been appalling even though we have been booking hotels that advertise free wifi it never seems to have a decent enough signal to maintain any reasonable connection, but finally in Berlin we have good wi fi. This meant we could do some banking, answer emails, finally get our tickets booked for Carnival in Rio next February, as well as arrange a train and accommodation for Prague, and of course do some catching up on the blog.


Also, as we are preparing to now leave Germany, there a few German oddities that we would like to mention:

1/ Every bakery has wasps swarming in the cabinets over the food. They don't seem to have any way of controlling them so it's just normal. They seem completely harmless, but every now and then you see someone violently trying to shoo one away.

2/ They have a really odd way of making the bed, and weird shaped pillows. The pillows are like massive floor cushions and the bed is made by folding up the doona and placing it in the centre of the bed, and we've encountered very few real double beds, they are usually two single beds pushed together. Also instead of chocolates on the beds they place little bags of soft lollies.

3/ There seems to be a ridiculous custom of using hiking sticks for just walking down the street (this was quite common in Bavaria). We found it hilarious to see people walking along paved footpaths with a pair of hiking sticks. Now we have nothing against the sticks and they were helpful when we were gorilla trekking through impenetrable forest - but why does anyone need them to walk down the street (we've even seen someone using them to walk inside a railway station!).

4/ Finally we can confirm it isn't a myth, but some Europeans do wear socks with their sandals - generally black - which is such a charming look, especially on young children!