Day 16 - Camp Leakey
After a surprisingly restful night we moved on to Pondok Tanguii. We were told that as the jungle was currently in full bloom there was ample food so there was chance no orangutans would show up for their free breakfast, especially as they hadn't seen any for the last three days. We were lucky and witnessed a few orangutans arriving and feeding, some with babies.
We then motored on to an estuary where there was a distinctive change in the colour of the water, from dirty brown to a tar like black colour. We saw lots of monkeys swinging and making massive leaps from tree to tree, which included proboscis monkeys, named for their huge noses.
After lunch we arrived at the famed Camp Leakey, established in 1971 to provide a base for the scientific study of orangutans. We made the 1.5km walk in very hot and humid conditions to arrive at the feeding station which was in full sun. This was the busiest viewing site we'd seen.
Our guide said that it was highly unlikely we would see any orangutans so after half an hour K and family headed back to the boat, while M stayed behind. On the boardwalk, not far from the wharf, K's group encountered some aggressive grey monkeys blocking the way and baring their teeth. K has had some experience tussling with primates at close quarters (check out our Rwanda posts) so she went after them with her hat to clear the way, while the rest of the family cowered in fear like pathetic weaklings as the cohort of monkeys were bringing up the rear. Back at the feeding station M finally saw a solitary orangutan come down to feed, a bit disappointing as he would rather have seen K battling the monkeys.
Heavy rain started late in the afternoon and the boat staff went to work lowering awnings and tarps to ensure we stayed dry. After dark we moved to a part of the river where we could see fireflies, and once the rain slowed the fireflies turned the trees on the bank into sparkling Christmas trees. Some of the fireflies came close enough that we we could pick them up and see the sparkles up close.
![]() |
| I think those dots are fireflies (though I'm surprised you can see anything at all) |
The rain lowered the temperature to make things a little more comfortable, and we docked on the side of the river amongst the palms for the night, with the generator running to keep us cool enough to sleep.




No comments:
Post a Comment